The Auction Whisperer

While many people look at a Rolex watch as an unnecessary luxury, others view these classic timepieces as smart investments. As it turns out those in the latter group may be on to something.

Many fine Rolex timepieces have become collector’s items, with some of the rarer and most unique watches selling for many times their original values.  Those with an eye for style have long understood the lasting value of these fine timepieces, and many collectors have done quite well buying and selling within this unique venue.

In fact the market for collectible timepieces is so strong that these fine items have their own auction houses. From what we hear, one of the most exciting is the Patrizzi and Company. Founded in 2008, they are headquartered in Geneva with offices in Milan and New York.

On March 22, 2009 Patrizzi and Company auctioned the David Blei Vintage Rolex Collection of rare vintage and classic Rolex watches. By many it is considered to be in the same class as the famous Mondani Rolex collection, which was auctioned in 2006 by Antiquorum and set several world records.

Experts say that the Blei collection, although smaller, contains watches of higher quality and rarity than other past collections. Mr. Patrizzi, who is the founder of this auction house, was also the co-founder of Antiquorum. He left Antiquorum in 2007.

The Mondani Rolex collection contained 309 Rolex watches and brought $9.4M USD. Guido Mondani, a renowned Rolex expert, was well known for his attempts to create the world’s largest collection of Rolex watches and other related materials.

The Blei collection is different in scope and in style, focusing more on rarer watches, timepieces and other Rolex items. The collection of Davide Blei contained 114 watches and sold for $3.7M USD. This was the hammer price since Patrizzi and Company does not charge a buyer’s premium.

Mr. Blei, who is from Italy, did not start collecting Rolex watches until he was 41. He has long prided himself on his eye for classic collectible watches, and this auction was the ultimate reflection of his taste and style.

Watch aficionados, collectors and auction enthusiasts certainly turned out for this outstanding group of Rolex watches. It is reported that there were over 100 bidders participating in real-time online bidding as well as 200 plus bidders on the actual floor of the auction house.

The top lot was a stainless steel 1953 Rolex Oyster Perpetual that sold for $268,637.

04/03/2012 by Anne Benedetto

At the present time, vintage jewelry is a really hot commodity in the world of auctions. There is very good money to be made on the older signed designer pieces. However, you need to get them as cheaply as you can and you need to sell them for as much as you can. Before buying any pieces for resale, you have to know what to look for.

• The number one most important factor is condition, condition, condition. After that comes condition.

• Check the stones carefully. Make sure they are all there. Make sure none of them are cloudy or have changed color so much as to not match the other stones. Is there glue present around any of the stones, which would lead you to believe they have been replaced?

• Are the stones just pasted in or are they prong set? Don’t misunderstand, there are many very expensive pasted pieces of vintage costume jewelry. However, prong set is more desirable because there is no glue to discolor over time and prong set stones have a greater chance of not falling out.

• Look for the use of different shaped stones, different size stones and different color stones in the same piece of jewelry. The more complicated the design, the more expensive the piece was when it was made and the more expensive it still is today.

• If you do buy any pieces with missing stones or other problems, you need to be prepared to fix them. You will need tools, replacement stones and, most importantly, the ability to make the repairs properly. There are experienced jewelry repair people who do this type of work but they don’t come cheap. Be careful because the cost of repairs could eat up any potential profit you have in those pieces.

02/07/2012 by Anne Benedetto

The allure and sparkle of high-quality vintage Sherman jewelry has resulted in collectors all over the world searching out special pieces. Sherman jewelry was made in Canada from 1947 until 1981 and was distributed to retail stores all over the country.

Sherman jewelry was and is known for its sparkle. The company used only the best quality Swarovski crystals. Gustave Sherman was a masterful designer and believed in the old saying, “In order to make money, you have to spend money.” Proof of that was Sherman’s willingness to pay top dollar for his Swarovski inventory of stones. Because of this, Swarovski provided him with only the best, which included the unusual process of reverse foiling. This process gave the crystals unparalleled luster and glitter.

The most popular cut stones used in Sherman pieces are the long marquise and the navettes. Most Sherman pieces include one or both of these cut shapes and his round stones include both brilliant cut and chatons. The stones were always prong-set, never glued. This speaks further of the quality of workmanship that went into Gustave Sherman’s pieces and why those pieces bring record prices in today’s secondary market.

The underside plating was heavy and polished to a fine finish. The plating was either rhodium, gold-plated or japanned metal. The Sherman signature on the underside of most pieces is unmistakable. Older pieces have a sweeping and slightly slanted S before the other letters.

There is a disagreement still in play about signed Sherman pieces. According to the book, “All That Glitters” by Valerie Hammond, Ms. Hammond states that while doing her research she spoke with members of the Sherman family. According to the family, all Sherman jewelry was signed. There are a number of people who disagree with this.

The website agigallus.com claims that vintage ads by Sherman prove that not all pieces were signed. This site belongs to Agi Gallus who is a major collector of Sherman and other high-end costume jewelry as well as being an actress.  The site didn’t explain how the ads prove this but we assume that Ms. Gallus must own what is an unsigned set of Sherman that appears in one of those ads. Remember that this is an assumption on our part. Perhaps this could be verified by writing to Ms. Gallus.

Also, Sandra Caldwell and Evelyn Yallen, authors of “Sherman Jewellry, The Masterpiece Collection,” believe that quite a bit of Sherman jewelry went unsigned. They list the reasons for this in their book. One of the reasons is a common one. It is one that also applies to quite a bit of unsigned vintage costume jewelry made by other well-known designers.

Early on, many pieces of costume jewelry carried small tags attached to them with the name of the manufacturer. These tags served as a signature of sorts. Such tags were removed once the pieces were purchased. The removal of the tags would then render those same pieces “unsigned.”

The most sought after pieces by collectors are the big bold brooches, bracelets and necklaces in bright colors. Collectors love the aurora borealis pieces, but brooches with deep Siam reds are highly sought after as well. These pieces can fetch hundreds of dollars and larger pieces have brought well in excess of $1,000. The bigger and bolder the piece, the more valuable. Complete sets will bring an added premium. Within these sets, you will usually find most earrings made by Sherman were left and right facing.

If buying and collecting any vintage rhinestone costume jewelry, invest in rare pieces and learn as much as you can about the manufacturer. Other things to consider are color, design and craftsmanship.  These are the things that determine value.

11/13/2011 by Anne Benedetto

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Born in a small Indiana town in 1899, Miriam Haskell propelled herself into the New York jewelry scene with five hundred dollars in her pocket. She became one of costume jewelry’s most prominent designers. Her jewels were worn by royalty and celebrities as well as countless women who admired her innovative style. Today, Haskell’s jewels are highly collectible and continue to be prized for their exceptional quality and for the ingenuity of their designs.

Within two years of her arrival in New York City, Haskell opened a boutique in the McAlpin Hotel. Nearly a year later, she opened a second shop on West 57^th Street. She also began a partnership with Frank Hess who shared in the design work. During the Great Depression, Haskell’s costume jewelry, made with quality art glass and rhinestones, was in big demand. Celebrities like Lucille Ball and Joan Crawford were among Haskell’s famous clientele as was the Duchess of Windsor.

Although no one knows for certain, many believe that Haskell handled most of the business side of the company while Hess maintained the lion’s share of the design side. On the other hand, no one can deny Haskell’s exceptional skill at getting her company off the ground at a time when few women went into business—in jewelry design or otherwise. The company eventually opened a shop at Saks 5^th Avenue as well as in London and Miami.

Early Haskell jewels reflected a nature motif. Flowers, vines, and birds were formed into pins, necklaces, and bracelets. Colorful and meticulously detailed, the jewels were regarded as highly sophisticated. Later designs would include brooches, lariats, and even elaborately beaded collars. The most popular styles would continue to be designed with different materials year after year. Typically, however, Haskell would present three new collections annually. Both Haskell and Hess would travel to Europe in order to select materials for their jewelry designs.

During the years of World War II, Haskell created jewelry that was metal free in order to contribute to the war effort. Instead, her designers fashioned jewels from plastics or natural materials. Hess enlisted in the military, but he created various designs to help Haskell keep the company running successfully before he left to serve. With her health declining, Haskell eventually sold her company to her brother. In later decades, the company would change owners and head designers several times. Today, the Haskell Company is still designing in its own name, but also designs for private labels like Jennifer Lopez’s J-Lo line of jewelry and, more recently, Gwen Stefani’s Harajuku Lovers line.

Of course, the vintage Haskell jewelry is what typically has collectors clamoring. Jewelry designed between the 1920s and the 1950s is particularly sought after. In the initial decades of her company, Haskell rarely signed her work, but the jewels of later decades were signed. Both Haskell and Hess were fond of pearls and many designs feature an exquisite use of lustrous artificial pearls paired with colorful crystals or beads. Other designs are quite whimsical in nature and feature colorful glass tubular beads in arrangements reminiscent of folk art.

With such a long history, the company has produced thousands of spectacular designs. Moreover, the company that Miriam Haskell founded continues to design highly original jewelry. With its influential style and continued design savvy, it is likely that Haskell’s company will be around for decades to come. Ms. Haskell passed away in 1981 having achieved great success in what was definitely a man’s world at the time.

10/02/2011 by Anne Benedetto

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